For thirty years, designers Sana Hashwani and Safinaz Muneer have dominated an ostensibly male dominated industry in an even more patriarchal society. Celebrated as Pakistan’s biggest success story, the design duo has built an empire managing what is indisputably Pakistan’s most aspirational fashion brand. An achievement in the male dominated corporate world, they have had their names included in the top 50 CEO’s of Pakistan. Initially starting out creating couture bridal gowns and evening wear with an investment of just 100,000 rupees, it was their accessible unstitched lawn range that made them into a household name. However, it’s not just their achievements which make them such an inspiration, it’s their unique approach and unquenchable enthusiasm.
“For thirty years, designers Sana Hashwani and Safinaz Muneer have dominated an ostensibly male dominated industry in an even more patriarchal society.”
As the fashion industry has changed, Sana and Safinaz have evolved with it. Their attitude has helped dictate their success; Sana and Safinaz are the most non-political and pleasant people you’re likely to come across in the Pakistani fashion industry. The duo may be household names in Pakistan with a versatile clientele in India and the Middle East but they do not like to live in the spotlight, preferring to shy away from it. They effortlessly juggle five in-house labels: bridals (their most high-end couture brand), eveningwear, prêt-à-porter, furniture and the most spectacular phenomena – lawn. Lawn, a local version of the light and summery fabric voile, was made fashionable by Sana Safinaz several years ago and brought with it, exponential success for the duo.
“Celebrated as Pakistan’s biggest success story, the design duo has built an empire managing what is indisputably Pakistan’s most aspirational fashion brand.”
With around 39 retail stores nationwide and a brand that ranks in the top three in terms of ready to wear in the country, Sana Safinaz command respect and recognition and are trailblazers in many unique ways. In particular they are pioneers in Pakistan for taking designer lawn to another level. Their first few unstitched luxury lawn collections caused major hysteria, never before had any designer packaged lawn in such a way; with embroidered add-ons, lace inserts, buttons and detailing that allowed women to create their own versions of luxury lawn attire. From high priced couture to affordable unstitched fabric, it’s commendable how Sana and Safinaz have managed to appeal to everyone across Pakistan, their brand has had staying power and a loyal customer base.
“Their first few unstitched luxury lawn collections caused major hysteria, never before had any designer packaged lawn in such a way...”
One secret to their success is the fact that they do everything tastefully; women of all ages look at Sana and Safinaz and want to be them. I associate the brand with high end luxury, when I purchased my first every Sana Safinaz outfit as a teenager, it was my first taste of Pakistani fashion and I have been addicted ever since. At the time there was nothing comparable, as designers the duo are able to understand what the modern woman wishes to wear whilst adding in their own sophisticated style. I was thrilled when Sana and Safinaz agreed to have a discussion with me about their history and how their company has evolved.
What would you say is the secret behind such a thriving partnership?
SH: We very rarely have a difference of opinion. We are like a well-oiled machine; always in sync. This is definitely one of our greatest strengths and why we have been able to keep things going so fluidly for as long as we have. The secret is to be passionate about whatever you do and 30 years on we are as passionate, if not more, than when we started.
SM: When we started out, it was just the two of us, a few tailors and a few thousand rupees in seed money. Back then, we never could have imagined what lay in store for us ahead. Every single item has our approval or input in some capacity.
“It’s the business of fashion that keeps driving us, we both turn up to work on our own designs, every single day.”
What drives you both after so long in the Industry?
SH: We have so many new goals and so many new challenges and so many new avenues we keep embarking on. So, you know, everything excites us.
SM: It’s the business of fashion that keeps driving us, we both turn up to work on our own designs, every single day.
How have you been able to remain successful for so long?
SH: We came in as two very young girls, set up a business and we sort of led the path. We are older now but somehow we continue to be the driving force; the disruption comes from us and that makes things interesting because we’re always looking for the new thing. And the dynamic in our company is not just hers and mine but the tons of young people who are incredibly hardworking. That’s why Sana Safinaz today has a very young culture.
SM: We broke into different avenues and levels which is why we sustained our position. We’re not arrogant. When you’re being humble and moving from point A to point B and you’re not jealous of others and concentrating on what you’re good at, I think that’s the reason for our success, too.
“...the dynamic in our company is not just hers and mine but the tons of young people who are incredibly hardworking”
How competitive are you both?
SH: It excites us, we love it - the minute we don’t have it we start to get bored. There was a point when we went into a lull. We were just doing what we were doing. We’ve been doing that net dupatta with sequins and the silk border and we continued to do it for 10 years because it was easy. But then someone else comes in and they start to take away your business and you wake up.
How has Sana Safinaz evolved as a corporation? In particular I am really impressed with your sophisticated marketing and social media strategy.
[Both] As a corporation Sana Safinaz has become very independent. From designing, printing, production, campaign planning and even marketing, it is all done in-house. We even have our own media wing, organizing exciting activities, blogger meet-ups and promotions on a regular basis. We aim to do everything with good taste and creativity.
Are you able to discuss some difficult times or failures which you have experienced along the way?
SH: One of the recipes for success is failure as well. Our first ever show was a disaster; I remember Safinaz cried after it. I couldn’t sleep for a month. I also recall the many times our lawn campaigns were targeted for being elitist.
“Lawn was the real puller for us. It gave women a taste of the Sana Safinaz lifestyle.”
What helped you cross the great divide between society and the masses in Pakistan?
SM: Lawn was the real puller for us. It gave women a taste of the Sana Safinaz lifestyle. It was also an eye opener for us. Though we had been doing bridals for twenty years women didn’t know us for that. Nothing compared to the overwhelming success of Sana Safinaz lawn.
How is Sana Safinaz lawn different from the other 108 varieties available every summer?
SM: We’re designing lawn, not just making prints. We design the whole theme behind all collections. We are working from scratch and designing complete outfits. It’s a very subtle difference and people have picked up on that.
Has lawn become an integral part of Pakistani fashion?
SH: Lawn has changed the market for fashion in Pakistan. Venture capital is happening because of lawn and investors who have never invested in fashion brands are coming in and making huge investments in lawn. Fashion is where money is to be made today and corporations are investing into it.
“Lawn has changed the market for fashion in Pakistan. Venture capital is happening because of lawn and investors who have never invested in fashion brands are coming in and making huge investments in lawn.”
Would you say that fusion is your expertise?
SM: For us fusion is a mix of eastern and western aesthetics. But we keep in mind our local client. We are designing for the Asian woman, not the western. Nobody has gotten fusion right yet. We have reinvented desi. We have access to western fashion and are inspired by it. In turn women are tapping into fashion that they don’t have access to.
SH: Our market is the South-Asian woman, no matter where she is in the world. Asians have managed to accumulate pockets of extreme wealth all over the world and our clientele is there, not in the western market.
What attracts masses of women to your brand?
SM: Ours is an aspirational brand. You see a lifestyle that you aspire to have. The clothes are a glamorous fusion of east and west.
How to do you deal with plagiarism in a country where there is a lack of regulation when it comes to intellectual copyright?
SM: It does, but you have to rise above it. What are you going to do? In lawn you can take a legal route because there’s too much money involved. You have to protect your business smartly.
SH: We encourage young designers. We’re a population of 210 million people, you will all find your niche. You will all grow. Of course, there’s healthy competition and we’re all competing against one another but there’s also a line that you draw.
You initially started out in eveningwear and Bridals, how has this landscape changed since you first started out?
SH: Ready to wear bridals is not a new concept but it’s new for us. We’re changing the concept of bridal clothing in Pakistan, we’re trying to add more stuff to it and we’ve even started our own couture page for it.
SM: A lot of people don’t have the kind of liquid cash, of 4 lakhs or more, that a customized bridal costs these days and that’s actually the reason why things have taken off. The clothes are beautiful. There’s a lot of competition in the market for bridal wear and everyone is doing a really good job; that client now has a selection of 10 people she can go to. So the price is a key point.
“ We’re changing the concept of bridal clothing in Pakistan...”
What differentiates Pakistani fashion from India?
SM: I think our aesthetics are very refined. India is very inspired by Bollywood. We are not Bollywood at all. The west loves the kitsch from India, not the sophistication. Today India looks at our industry; their prêt market is not as organised as ours. Lawn is a phenomenon unique to Pakistan. These are incredible achievements, and as mentors to the industry we need to focus on them. This is what inspires us the most.
SH: You’ll see that now some Indian designers are transcending beyond Bollywood because their society women have evolved. The designers are now gradually catering to them more than to the Bollywood clan. We have been very well received in both Delhi and Bombay.
What do you think Pakistani fashion has to its advantage?
SM: Undoubtedly the craftsmanship. Our craft is beautiful and it’s substantially different from India or any other part of the world. We still have craftsmen and people who sit for hours and hours and put in more than 1500 hours in a dress. The labour is so talented and yet at the same time affordable. The beauty is that it’s all done by hand. I was watching the Valentino movie when I noticed that in the west it is such a big deal if beading or embroidery is done by hand. Well, all our clothes are done by hand. In the bridal market all our work is couture.
“Our craft is beautiful and it’s substantially different from India or any other part of the world.”
SH: We wanted to focus on our eastern craftsmanship when designing (Pakistan’s first Oscar nominee) Sharmeen Obaid Chinoy’s outfit. It’s quintessential Sana Safinaz fusion, embellished from head to toe but streamlined and contemporary enough not to look like a costume.
What are the main challenges for the Pakistani fashion industry?
SM: The biggest problem is finding skilled labour, although in 10 years time you will find that skilled labour, because the industry will demand that those people come forth. Then there are the electricity and security issues; there is a strike and you lose three or four days and everything goes haywire with delivery issues.
SH: Another issue is QC (quality control) because the fabric comes from the textile mills and it is out of your control, but we have to deal with it. For example, if there is a bleed on a shirt, customers can return it to one of our stores and if the complaint is legitimate, their money will be refunded. We have a full return policy. What is so great about having your own stores is that you can deliver on the trust value of your brand and in this way control your image. If a customer buys one of our products from another store, there is no guarantee they will refund your money.
What’s next for Sana Safinaz?
SH: If you want to grow. You have to keep on innovating.
SM: We have recently launched perfumery, we’re looking at many avenues. Maybe cosmetics, different things from our retail points of view because now we have a network that allows us to do more.
“There’s a lot of responsibility on our shoulders because we realize we’re also the founders of the current modern fashion in Pakistan and with that, comes a lot of responsibility.”
How do you see your brand evolving in the future?
SH: The brand Sana Safinaz must continue even when we’re dead and gone.
SM: I think the future for us is always exciting. We’re always looking forward and trying to change our plans and predict what fashion is. There’s a lot of responsibility on our shoulders because we realize we’re also the founders of the current modern fashion in Pakistan and with that, comes a lot of responsibility. We kill ourselves to get the best collection out. We feel the heat because we also realize we have the power to bring change in the industry. If I say short-lengths are in, in a year, our house can bring that change. That shows you the power of the house of Sana Safinaz.
SH: We’re continually reinventing – that’s how you have longevity for 30 years. You need to shake it up continuously. It’s an essential part of the Sana Safinaz process to keep thinking about having that sales quotient but also to shake up the market that changes things.
You can find out more about Sana Safinaz at www.sanasafinaz.com/
Photographs contain clickthrough URL’s where appropriate
Photographs courtesy of Sana Safinaz