One of my favourite Pakistani designers for luxe prêt, Farah Talib Aziz’s artisanal designs have intricate details and are beautifully tailored, they are contemporary couture with a hint of tradition. Her brand has modernised traditional attire and is known for its opulence, with its signature embroidery and baroque motifs. Farah’s design philosophy is unabashedly feminine; strong colours, regally draped material and stunning embroidery, she is always able to maintain a form of elegant sophistication.
“Her brand has modernised traditional attire and is known for its opulence, with its signature embroidery and baroque motifs.”
Based in Karachi, Farah has had a strong fan base of her haute couture clients since 2006. With the expansion of her prêt-à-porter collections Farah’s work is now available internationally via her website. It is clear from her designs that Farah comes from a background in textiles, her pieces have expert tailoring and embellishments. Whether it is Farah’s eagerly anticipated summer collections with their florals, pearls and pastel colour palette or her traditional wedding gowns with their vibrant jewel colours and ‘kaamdaani’ embroidery, she is a favourite with the fashion crowd and the discerning woman.
I became a fan of Farah’s after purchasing my first signature ‘kalidaar’ peshwas from her collection; exquisitely made it was a traditional Pakistani outfit, yet it had a modern twist; delicate embroidery and embellishments - it was chic and understated. Some of my most favourite pieces in my wardrobe are her signature ‘chunri chadaars’, made from pure silk and available in a myriad of hues they are drenched in enticingly luminous ‘kaamdaani’, with an elaborate hand worked border. These ‘chadaars’ are so versatile and striking it is hard not to buy them in multiple colours and wear with both traditional and western outfits.
Whilst Farah’s outfits are at the luxury end of the market, it’s evident how much effort and hard work goes into each piece. Every design is stylish, beautifully made with an exceptional eye for detail. The fashion powerhouse is run by talented mother-daughter duo Farah Talib Aziz and Maliha Aziz, Farah has always had a headstrong and clear vision for her brand. Maliha kindly agreed to have a call with me to answer a few questions.
“It is clear from her designs that Farah comes from a background in textiles, her pieces have expert tailoring and embellishments.”
Please can you describe the Farah Talib Aziz brand philosophy in a few words?
My work exudes effeminate opulence, garnished with our signature embroidery and floral motifs. Our design philosophy as a fashion house is to magnify femininity, with the help of regally draped cloth and expert artisans, while maintaining a form of elegant sophistication.
“At Farah Talib Aziz we’ve always had a very strong aesthetic that runs through all of our creations”
At Farah Talib Aziz we’ve always had a very strong aesthetic that runs through all of our creations, from cottons to bridals our focus is to highlight femininity and elegance with the use of classic, intricate embellishments and blossoming fresh colour choices. Our signature traits of soft, feminine colours and floral motifs are used to make women of all ages feel beautiful and confident in our designs.
How has your style evolved over the years?
Whilst we have evolved in many ways, we have also stayed true to our roots. Our vision was to create luxe classic pieces that modernize traditions while highlighting feminine appeal and I am proud to say, we continue to do that. We have diffused the Farah Talib Aziz aesthetics of dainty florals, intricate embroideries and flattering silhouettes with the use of bold patterns to create a collection that appeals to women of all ages and backgrounds
“Our vision was to create luxe classic pieces that modernize traditions...”
As a label, we have always been quite private, operating from our studio with limited commercial presence and activity. Our work speaks for itself.
Walk us through your design process step by step. How does the idea in your head become reality?
We usually sketch out a design keeping the silhouette, colours and embellishments in mind. We make much of our own material and I either choose one of my existing weaves or develop a new texture and print for the specific piece. After this, we draw out the stencils for the embellishments, which then go to get pinned before printing. The cut will be discussed in detail with my master tailor and after (sometimes many) prototypes, it will drape exactly as planned on the mannequin.
Only after this, it will get upholstered on the frame or ‘adda’ for hand work. Each thread, sequin, technique and knot is carefully selected and monitored with lots of trial and error favouring whichever best suits the design. After sometimes months of hand work the piece comes off the ‘adda’ and is sent for ‘mukesh kaamdani’. Meanwhile, the edging and pipings, the bottoms and ‘dupatta’ are prepared. Such extensive work is a joy to display but is completely heartbreaking to see shabbily replicated.
“Each thread, sequin, technique and knot is carefully selected and monitored with lots of trial and error”
Please can you explain some of the age-old techniques and traditional skills used in your pieces?
Our signature ‘chunri chaadars’ have become a staple from bridal to wedding wear ensembles. I believe that they're the perfect investment piece that becomes an heirloom piece and can be adorned by generations to come. These ‘chaadars’ have an intricate process that is painstakingly long. Our artisans work tirelessly to create these impeccable ‘chunri chaadars’.
“It is near impossible to repeat the exact same ‘chunri’ design and I believe that’s the beauty of it.”
The process starts with a raw, pure silk dupatta that is plucked and tied into small bindings that compose a design, that is why each design is so uniquely different. More than a thousand bindings are made on each ‘chaadar’ to create the ‘chunri’ base by a group of two to three artisans. It is near impossible to repeat the exact same ‘chunri’ design and I believe that's the beauty of it.
The bound fabric is then dyed, sometimes in custom colours as per the client's preference, other times we try to create new festive colour combinations for our campaigns. After the dyeing, these ‘chaadars’ are carefully unknotted. Another group of artisans add the metallic threadwork, 'mukesh kaamdaani', which is layered on the ‘chunri’ in a pattern of its own. The final steps are the beautiful, exquisitely embroidered borders, and our signature tassels.
“The process is long but knowing that these ‘chaadars’ will be loved and adorned for years to come, makes it all worth it.”
The process is long but knowing that these ‘chaadars’ will be loved and adorned for years to come, makes it all worth it. We have many clients that have passed on our ‘chaadars’ to their daughters and daughters-in-law, and it gives us immense joy.
We also source pure French Chantilly lace to create the most exquisite creations for our clients. I love using Chantilly lace for our signature pastel bridals, some of the designs have dupattas with delicate trimmings and borders of Chantilly Lace and others have dupattas that are fully made of Chantilly Lace in all its glory. Because the lace is so delicate, it has to be handled with a lot of care, and a selective group of our most skilled embroiderers and master tailors work on these stunning pieces.
“...it has to be handled with a lot of care, and a selective group of our most skilled embroiderers and master tailors work on these stunning pieces.”
I like to make sure that the embroidery is intricately done, so that it doesn't outshine the beautiful lace. Each new piece is created with love, and a lot of thought is put into each one of them. Sometimes we create bespoke designs and they turn out to be absolutely breathtaking!
“Most of our outfits go through six to eight processes.”
We have 500 artisans working exclusively just on our luxe prêt collection. Some of the techniques such as the ‘naina gold zari’ takes over eighty hours to create and includes over seven processes. Most of our outfits go through six to eight processes. All of the materials we use are of the highest quality, we use certified Swarovski diamantes to achieve that premium sparkle.
What are some of your personal favourite pieces from your collections?
When we work on a collection, it takes months before we finally have a selective few pieces that we absolutely love. I personally believe that until I don't love it, or I don't see myself wearing it, it doesn't matter how many months I've spent on that design - I won't have the heart to put it out there. Which is why it makes it so difficult to choose favourites!
“We have 500 artisans working exclusively just on our luxe prêt collection.”
I think one of the designs that is closest to my heart is the pastel bridal I wore on my wedding. It's just so beautiful and definitely a signature FTA bridal. This design has been loved and adorned by many FTA brides, and that makes it all the more special for me.
“I think one of the designs that is closest to my heart is the pastel bridal I wore on my wedding.”
Our Rangeen Kalidaar is another one of my many favourite, festive pieces. It is a beautiful, regal looking shade of orange, with vibrant pink and magenta embroidered flowers, ‘gota’ and ‘zardozi’ work. It is from a collection that came out almost three years ago and it has been worn by many of our festive brides. It's such a timeless ensemble that we have brides that are still opting for the gorgeous ‘kalidaar’.
Another piece I love is our classic ivory gold ‘kalidaar’ which has intricate mirror hand worked all over the ‘kalidaar’ and its dupatta. All of the layering, the mirror work, the Swarovski crystals and hints of colour just gives it an almost iridescent feel to it. It's extraordinary!
Please could you tell us a little about how your mother has influenced you?
My mother is a true inspiration and my biggest female role model. She wanted me to have everything that she couldn’t have and has always focused a lot of her attention on me. Her talent coupled with her hard work and humility is truly commendable. I have learnt so much from her positivity and try to reflect the advice and guidance which she has taught me my entire life.
“My mother is a true inspiration and my biggest female role model.”
What is next for Farah Talib Aziz?
We recently opened up our new flagship boutique in Karachi in June. The new store contains our prêt store, the bridal studio and our offices. We wanted to create an immersive experience for our clients.
We are launching our fine jewellery collection by end of this year and we're absolutely thrilled about it.
You can find out more about Farah Talib Aziz at https://www.farahtalibaziz.com.pk/
Photographs contain clickthrough URL’s where appropriate
Photographs courtesy of Farah Talib Aziz